Extensive faq information about modern inline black powder muzzle loading rifles suitable for hunting. Information included can benefit both the novice and the experienced hunter.
FAQs answers common questions about modern inline muzzle loading rifles and it includes as questions some observations and test results from both gun writers and myself.
Note: You are responsible for proper use of this information. It is up to you to become familiar with your muzzle loading firearm, to know and follow the manufacturer's rules and specifications, and to follow safety rules. If you are not familiar with general muzzleloading safety rules, READ them now.
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My name is Wes Borchers. My background is 32 years of automation experience with a large national employer. During that same time I have owned or been part-owner of several small businesses. Prior to creating this web site I had been an avid rifle hunter for 20 years and an amateur rifle smith, handloader and shooter for 15 years.
I became intrigued with the elegant simplicity and low cost of inline muzzle loaders when they first became available. I read everything I could get my hands on for a year, then started shooting inline muzzleloading rifles; buying and selling them as I tried different brands and concepts. I consequently learned that modern muzzle loading is an exciting area of firearms development. If you're not involved in it already, peruse this information and, if not already, you may get excited about it too.
I originally created this web site in 2000 as the Muzzle Loading Hunter Store as a part time business venture. After three successful years as an internet vendor of muzzleloading rifles and supplies I came to a crossroads. My day job was no longer fitting into 40 hours and the business was not big enough to hire people to run it for me. After allowing the web site to languish for a couple of years I retired from my day job at the end of 2004.
Once again I am at a crossroads. However, my goal has always been to: 1) Provide current and useful "tell it like it is" knowledge and tips of inline muzzle loading for the beginning and the more experienced hunter and shooter; 2) Provide guidance for those who don't have the time or the inclination to gather the components to assemble a truly first class hunting rifle; and 3) continue to sell muzzleloading firearms and supplies via local venues and online auction sales.
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The Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, and Firearms (BATF) classifies muzzle loading firearms that cannot be readily converted to a centerfire as antique firearms. Antique firearms are not regulated nationally and can be shipped directly to you.
Most states and local communities do not regulate muzzle loading firearms. However, there are a few exceptions. If ordering muzzle loading firearms and accessories from any source, internet or mail order, it up to you to abide by the laws where you live. If you buy from us, as part of our ordering process, you will be certifying with the order that you can legally purchase and receive shipment of the merchandise ordered.
We cannot possibly be aware of every state law and local ordnance. However, if we are aware of state and local communities that regulate muzzle loading firearms we will post that information
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Special and extended muzzle loading hunting seasons for North America's deer and big game has forever changed the face of muzzle loading. Many hunters are converting from centerfire rifles or shotguns to muzzle loading rifles to take advantage of these muzzle loading seasons and the quality, features and accuracy of modern inline muzzle loading rifles. This demand has spawned an exciting array of modern muzzle loading rifles, new black powder replica powders, and new muzzle loading projectiles.Today's quality inline rifles are amazingly accurate, reliable, and easier to clean than traditional style muzzle loaders. With a modern scope some are capable of taking big game up to 200yds. It has been said that there does not appear to be much difference in the design of today's muzzle loaders but in the What features should an inline muzzle loader have ... ? section I discuss differences that are very important to the hunter.
The replica black powder that helped revolutionize muzzle loader hunting was Hodgdon's Pyrodex pellets. The Hodgdon company pelletized their excellent Pyrodex powder into 30 and 50 grain pellets for the .50 caliber muzzle loader. These pellets eliminated the measuring and mess of handling loose powder at the range and when hunting. They became very popular and are available at nearly all quality outdoors sports departments and gun shops. Today there are other powders such as Hodgdon Triple 7, GOEX Pinnacle, and American Pioneer (formerly Clean Shot).
Soft lead projectiles, round balls or minie bullets will still do the job within their inherent limits but they do not maximize the longer range power and accuracy of many inline rifles. Borrowing from shotgun slug technology, the plastic sabot (however you pronounce it!) has been adapted to standard black powder bore sizes. Some, not all, are designed to stand up to the heat and pressure of modern magnum black powder loads. By a tremendously wide margin, the .50 caliber has become the most accurate and versatile of the calibers available. Sabots for the 50 caliber muzzle loader are available from several companies for .44 and .45 caliber bullets with the .45 bullets the most popular.
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Today's inline muzzle loaders are well made and very strong. HOWEVER, tests have shown that black powder and its various replicas can generate pressures high enough to blow up a modern steel barrel! READ the manufacturers manual to know the maximum powder capabilities of your particular rifle and stick to them. DO NOT attempt to exceed them.
Strength and reliability of the inline muzzle loader action/barrel cannot be compromised. Rifles of dubious quality or those that have not been maintained properly should not be fired. If there is any doubt about any component of the rifle operating safely, have the firearm inspected by a qualified gunsmith.
Beyond strength and reliability, the most critical feature of the inline muzzle loader is the caliber and rifling twist rate of the barrel. The .50 caliber barrel with common rifling twist rates between 1:24" to 1:32" take full advantage of today's modern .44 and .45 handgun "magnum" bullets when these bullets are fired in a plastic sabot designed for the higher pressures and heat of the modern inline muzzle loaders. Barrel length is also an important feature. The popular 26" barrels takes good advantage of large powder charges. With its reputation for best accuracy with sabotted bullets and with numerous. bullets suitable for deer, large big game, and even varmints, the 50 caliber muzzle loader is the "king" of inline muzzle loader versatility.
Note: Several gun writers have noted that the 1:32" twist would not stabilize the long 300 grain copper bullets. However, there are plenty of lead based jacketed bullets and lead bullets that will stabilize with the 1:32" twist rate and they work very well also.
Inline actions must be absolutely reliable, provide easy bolt removal for breech and barrel cleaning, and have sufficient access for easy, quick capping. Triggers should be crisp and break with a 3# to a 4# finger pull. A short lock time (the time between pulling the trigger and actual cap ignition) is desirable for best accuracy, especially when shooting offhand at game that is at a distance. Bolt action muzzle loading rifles with their lighter "firing pin" inside the bolt and a strong spring to launch it when the trigger is pulled generally have the shortest (best) lock time. Another advantage with the bolt actions is that the bolt is easily removable for cleaning even with a scope mounted on it, ideally with no tool required. Unscrewing a large cap from the end of an action with a scope mounted on it significantly slows down the bolt removal process and can be somewhat frustrating to someone like me with big hands. The action should allow a scope to be mounted at proper height and with proper eye relief. There should also be a way to weather proof the action for ignition reliability in wet weather.
Stock design is very important on modern inline rifles. Large powder charges generate significant recoil and the stock should be designed to minimize that recoil. Along with good basic design, the stock should have a thick butt pad to reduce recoil and a wide butt to spread out the effects of remaining recoil. The comb (cheek contact area) should be shaped so that it doesn't "slap" the shooter in the cheek upon firing and it should have the right drop for the desired sighting option. It should be equipped with quick release sling studs.
I first looked to see what rifles might be needed and wanted by the you and I , the hunters. To do that, I listed every hunting situation that I have experienced or read about. Since I have hunted in many situations, I could look at how my own battery of hunting rifles had evolved over the years. Then I listed the features that I and most people would want in a rifle for each given hunting situation. Based on that analysis I could identify three distinct categories of rifle based on rifle weight, scoping options, and barrel length. All of my serious hunting rifles were scoped except for the old military rifles I use for backup and when nasty weather precludes the use of a scope.
Once I had determined the categories needed, I wanted to find the best rifles I could for each category. I read all the information and literature I could get my hands on. Doing so, I identified four muzzle loader's from four manufacturer's that fit into one or more of my categories. My wife has started to count my rifles (She's not buying that "Honey, I've had that for years" line anymore) so I sold several beloved centerfire rifles and replaced them with the four inline muzzle loading rifles to evaluate and test. What fun that was and what an eye opener it was! Of the four I tested, two of the rifles really "fell into place" and astounded me with their quality, features, reliability, and accuracy. One other thing came out of my testing, I've decided I really don't need a centerfire for deer anymore! Our Rifle Guide identifies the categories that I have identified along with the muzzle loading rifles that I have found suitable for each category.
If you are truly a diehard hunter you have already found out that scopes don't work in heavy driving rain and/or snow. If you already own an inexpensive muzzle loader, take the scope off, sight in the open sights, and keep it for this situation. Most muzzle loaders can be made waterproof by fashioning a cover of some type over the capping port and covering the muzzle with a balloon or something similar. The balloon will shoot off without affecting accuracy or safety.
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Most hunters mount a scope on their hunting rifles. Savvy manufacturers know this and, although they include open sights on most models, they drill and tap receivers for scope mounts and provide suitable stock design "drop at comb" for scope mounting . Open sights on today's quality rifles are mostly useful as backup sights in the event of scope failure. To be useful for backup purposes, the rear sight must be installed far enough forward to allow proper mounting of a scope.
What scope magnification power to use? The maximum range of today's more powerful muzzle loading rifles is generally considered to be approximately 200 yards. Since this is not long range in terms of centerfire capability, it is clear that heavy weight, high magnification scopes used for target shooting and varmint hunting are not necessary. As with rifle selection, I have found that scope selection depends on what and how I hunt! For stand hunting over open country, it hard to beat a 3x9x40 or something similar. For "western" or "mountain" style rifles, a lightweight 2x7x32 is a great choice. For hunting close cover or where moving game is likely, a 1.5x4.5x20 might be a better choice.
Correctly positioning a scope on a rifle is nearly as important as magnification. Experienced hunters want the scope to naturally align with the eye when the gun is mounted for a shot. For the scope to align with the eye upon mounting the rifle to the shoulder, the scope must be mounted at the correct height. The scope must also be mounted to provide the correct distance between the shooter's eye and the scope. There are other factors also. Muzzle loading rifles have a large diameter barrel and there is no significant barrel step down allowing low mounting of large objective scopes. Also, each manufacturer uses a different stock design having its own drop at comb and heel.
I am very fussy about the scope position on my rifles and I have tested the various components available for the rifles I sell to determine what scope bases, ring mounts, and scopes work the best on each one. These components are available as packages and separately as accessories at our rifle pages.
I like and use scopes on most of my rifles but none of them carry as easy as a well balanced rifle with an open or peep sight to handle the sighting needs. When I grab a rifle to walk about the country side, most of the time it will have an aperture sight on it. SX Sight Systems (formerly Ashley Outdoors, Inc) manufactures quality aperture sights that are becoming popular on certain types of firearms. These sights are ideal for the modern muzzle loading rifle used for still hunting timber where shots typically are less than 100 yards.
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Most of today's inline muzzle loaders are strong. HOWEVER, tests have shown that black powder and its various replicas can generate pressures high enough to blow up a modern steel barrel! READ the manufacturers manual to know the maximum powder capabilities of your particular rifle and powder combination and stick to them. DO NOT attempt to exceed them. NEVER use smokeless powders in any muzzle loading rifle.
All black powders and replica black powders will work in modern inline muzzle loaders. If you already use black powder or replica powders there is reason to continue to do so. However, if you're new to muzzle loading or just want to move away from the inconvenience, smell and mess of traditional black powder, you may want to consider using pre-measured Hodgdon "pellets" or "sticks" currently available from powder makers.
Hodgon pellets and "sticks" do not require the powder measuring equipment of bulk powders. That makes them very convenient to use both at the range and in the field. However, savvy hunters are trending toward bulk powders as they are less costly and better accuracy can be attained by more versatility in tuning the load to the rifle. Its well known also that Hodgdon 777 bulk powder has higher velocity than most and it has become the velocity favorite for those that are looking for maximum velocity with their loads.
The also give similar smoke as black powder when fired. The don't seem to have the same foul odor when being fired or when being cleaned. Unless using pre-measured pellets or sticks, they require the same equipment and techniques to load as black powder. While the new powders are not as corrosive as black powder, and pyrodex, all the new powders will eventually foul the bore. However, they can be successfully cleaned with nothing more than water.
All of the black powders (and replicas) have their advocates. Most will shoot well in most rifles. However, some are more readily available than others. When choosing a muzzleloading powder be sure and take that into consideration. Also, be aware that FFFg granulations in the same volume as FFg has significantly higher pressures. Do not use FFFg where the rifle and/or powder maker recommend FFg granualation.
mlhunter.note: 50% more powder and a lot more recoil add only 25 to 35 yards of effective range to the same hold in terms of trajectory. Its not worth it unless you truly need the extra range or energy! The only place I use a 3 pellet load for deer hunting is from a home built deer stand with a place to rest the forearm that overlooks a hay field. My shots from there have ranged from 40 to 225 yards. I also have orange ribbons tied at 200yds well ahead of the season so I know the range is.
Modern inline muzzle loaders work best using a plastic sabot with a jacketed or lead bullets inserted in it as the fired projectile. The popularity of magnum handgun hunting has caused a proliferation of excellent quality bullets that are suitable for the velocities attainable with sabotted bullets. They are consistently accurate and work well at the higher velocities attainable by modern muzzle loaders. Pure lead "minie" style bullets can be used in modern inline muzzle loaders but they are not recommended unless laws dictate their use. Their soft lead construction and their rainbow trajectory make them less effective than sabotted bullets. Round balls lose energy very quickly and generally do not shoot well with the twist rate used for modern inline rifles.
Most sabot/bullet offerings today are .45 caliber stuffed in a suitable caliber sabot, are manufactured by American companies, and have weights and nose configurations suitable for muzzle loading. Its important to keep in mind that a moderate 100 grain muzzleloading rifle load will shoot significantly with higher velocity than most 44 magnum and 45 colt handguns so its important to use well constructed bullets. Barnes pistol bullets, Nosler Partition pistol bullets, Speer 260, and Hornady 250 and 300 XTP Magnum bullets are constructed well enough for this load. For a magnum (100-150 grain) load one can't go wrong with the following bullets. If long range is the goal, the first two would be the best picks.
- Barnes 285 or 300 grain muzzleloading bullets
- Hornady 300 grain SST muzzleloading bullets
- Hornady 300 grain HP/XTP magnum bullets
- Nosler 260 and 300 grain Partition-HG bullets
mlhunter.tip: The 300 grain bullet gives up very little to the lighter bullets due to their better ballistic co-efficient (air slipperiness). Developing one good load with one of the bullets in the above list would provide you with a rifle that could hunt anything in North America with the possible exception of the biggest bears. That's why I use 300 grain bullets for nearly all my muzzleloading rifle hunting.
mlhunter.note: Early tests by noted gun writers indicated that modern 50 caliber muzzle loading rifles are generally more accurate with .451-.452 (45 Colt/.454 Casull/460 S&W) diameter bullets than .429 (.44 Special/.44 Magnum) bullets. The theory is the lighter thinner sabot leaves the bullet quicker and least affects the flight of the bullet. My shooting experience has verified that the sabot does leave the bullet slightly quicker. However, recent tests by several respected names using current sabots and bullets refutes this theory. If you're a .44 magnum shooter, I would try the .50/.44 sabot/bullet combo to see if they will work for you.
I haven't hunted varmints with my inline muzzle loaders (yet!) but there is a variety of bullets that would work. If you're a .45 ACP shooter and handloader, you probably already have a supply of jacketed bullets that will work just fine in your inline for varmint hunting.
There are a lot of pre-packaged lead muzzle loading bullets available to the hunter. Most all of them will work for deer size or smaller animals. Some of the heavier ones will work satisfactorily on heavier game. Some can be very accurate, especially the heavier ones from Precision Rifle and Buffalo bullets.
With #10 pistol caps, #11 rifle caps , #11 magnum rifle caps, musket caps, and shotgun primers available for ignition it can get quite confusing. Other than #10 pistol caps which won''t work at all, most of them will work if all is well. I still hunt with CCI #11 magnum caps unless the rifle can't use them and I've always got my venison when I did my part. Generally speaking, I'd follow the recommendations of the rifle manufacturer.
mlhunter.note: The shotgun primer is the most common ignition today, however many feel that its too much ignition. Some experts feel that small rifle primers provide the ideal ignition for today's muzzleloading powders. Cabela's and Precision Rifle sells a VeriFlame Primer Adapter to adapt any 209 muzzleloader to use small rifle primers.
Cappers are handy which is another reason I stick to #11 caps, I can hold 20 at at time in a pocket sized capper. However, cappers won't work on some muzzleloaders.
Loading accessories get the powder and bullet into the rifle. New rifles come with their own ramrod system for loading and cleaning. Study the system before deciding what other accessories might be needed. It is also helpful to go through the takedown and cleaning routine to get familiar with the rifle.
Powder measuring tools will be needed unless you are using "pellets" or "sticks". If loading bulk powder, a powder dispenser and powder measur will be needed. While not necessary at the range, two or three speed shells will be needed in the field for fast reloads.
One indispensable accessory is a good quality short starter/multipurpose tool. At a minimum it should have a ball starter, a short starter, and a palm saver. Most of them can be used as a ramrod extension as well. Also, if your ramrod has threads on both ends a ramrod ball that screws into the ramrod is very helpful at the range. If you don't have one run, don't walk, to your favorite store and puchase one. Better yet, buy two as they can break when seating tight sabot and bullet combinations. The best one I've
mlhunter.review: I have tested (and broke) quite a few short starters and, so far, the Knight has been the strongest and most versatile. Its a bit bigger and heavier than most but it still fits in the pocket of my hunting coat and goes everywhere I go when shooting or hunting with my muzzleloaders.
mlhunter.review: I thought that the T-C 4-N-1 Quick Shot might eliminate the need for carrying a short starter in the field, but they are not strong enough to work as a short starter with conventional muzzles. Apparently it is designed to work only with T-C rifles that have the QLA muzzle system.
The ramrods that come with inline muzzle loaders will have the generally standard 10-32 female threads on both ends or at least on one end. It may have a combination cleaning and loading jag on the ramrod or it may not. If it does not have you'll need to carry one with you when shooting. Once a good load has been developed its a good idea to mark the rifles ramrod for an indicator that the sabot/bullet is seated on the powder.
mlhunter.tip: At the range I use a range rod for seating bullets and use the rifle's ramrod for any cleaning that I do.
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WARNING: Today's inline muzzle loaders are well made and very strong. HOWEVER, tests have shown that black powder and its various replicas can generate pressures high enough to blow up a modern steel barrel! READ the manufacturers manual to know the maximum powder capabilities of your particular rifle and stick to them. DO NOT attempt to exceed them. NEVER use smokeless powders in any muzzle loading rifle.
What accuracy should you expect? Like most things, it depends. It depends on how you hunt and at what ranges you expect to shoot. Irrespective of what you read elsewhere, I've found that most inline muzzleloaders, even inexpensive ones, will shoot into 3"-4" at 100 yds with some load experimentation. That's good enough if timber is primarily hunted with that rifle. However, if longer ranges are expected, the rifle should shoot consistent 2" groups. However, consistent 2" groups may take considerable experimentation, especially with magnum loads. A few rifles will exceed this but its not common.
For absolute accuracy a "spit patch" my be required between shots. For hunting loads, where second and third shots won't get cleaning between them, it would be appropriate to fire three shot groups with some cleaning in between groups. Some muzzleloading powders now claim that no cleaning is needed for many shots. Maybe its old habits but I would still run a "spit patch" after each three shot group.
mlhunter.review: The Savage ML II using AA XMP-5744 smokeless powder recommended loads does not requre cleaning between shots or groups. Somewhere around 50 to 100 rounds the rifle should be given a centerfire type of cleaning.
Each rifle has its load preferences. Its up the owner of the rifle to find an appropriate hunting load that shoots accurately from their rifle. To find a good load, variables introduced by inconsistent holding of the rifle or poor shooting must be eliminated or at least minimized. Some type of rest such as a shooting bench at a range or something close to it should be used. The rifle must be held consistently while firing it. The two points of contact should be the forearm (not the barrel) and the stock. The rifle should be held hard against the shoulder so the shoulder can absorb the recoil and, if a scope is used, to avoid "shooters eyebrow" where the scope contacts the forehead upon firing.
mlhunter.tip: Get in the habit of checking the muzzle before capping the rifle. Its not rare to forget to remove the loading ramrod before firing the shot. Firing a maximum load with a solid aluminum ramrod in the bore makes for a HUGE bullet weight. You may recall from your high school physics class about equal and opposite reactions? Extreme recoil is the equal and opposite reaction! I you're wandering how come I know this, don't ask! But I will tell you the Austin & Halleck rifle took it in stride. Another testament for those fine rifles as far as I'm concerned!
The first thing when developing a load for any firearm is to standardize components as mixing component brands and types really complicates matters. Shooters can come up with their own standard list, starting with components already owned. To provide an example, I'll list my current starting place for inline muzzleloaders; a) CCI #11 magnum caps or Winchester 209 primers (if required), b) Hodgdon Pyrodex 50 grain pellets, c) Hornady Hi-Vel sabots with 300 HP/XTP bullets, and d) three ring binder to record shooting results. Over time, my standardized component list may change but a component will only change if I find something that is consistently better.
Using inexpensive bullets, the rifle should be sighted in at 25 yds. With the rifle sighted in at 25 yards, the target can be moved to 50 yards and 3 rounds of each bullet type can be shot into a fresh target. When finished with that, the target can be moved to 100yds and the best three shot groups shot again at 100yds. The scope can then be adjusted to center the group on the target. Three more rounds should be shot to verify the rifle is sighted in properly. A supply of the bullets and sabots what will be hunted with should be ordered. Any remaining bullets can be used for practice shooting or lend them to your hunting buddy's to help find him a good load!
Sighting in a rifle is a matter of personal preference but I sight all my rifles 2" high at 100 yards. I don't like the bullets that I fire to go much over 2" above the line of sight. For you rifle cranks this is a 4" Point Blank Range (PBR). Effectively, that translates to a normal centerfire dead on hold on the vitals out to 250 yards and a backbone hold at 300 yards, my self imposed maximum game range. There is sufficient energy with a modern centerfire at 300 yards to put a deer down quickly and humanely.
With an inline scoped muzzleloader I sight in 300 grain Barnes bullets for deer using three Pyrodex pellet (150 grains) at 2" high at 100 yds. Energy for this load falls to approximately 1000 foot pounds at 200 yards, more than enough energy to down a deer quickly and humanely. A dead on hold is good to 175 yards and a backbone hold is good at 200 yards which matches up well with the energy figures. One quiet, frosty morning I shot a coyote and a crow at 175 yds with this load and the impact was exactly where I would have expected it to be.
I sight in 300 grain bullets for deer using two Pyrodex pellet (100 grains) the same way which gives a good load out to 150yds and a backbone hold at 175 yards.
mlhunter.note: When shooting the muzzleloading rifle it is important to know what the wind is doing. A 10 mph cross wind will move a Barnes 300 grain bullet at 2000fps nearly 12" at 200yds. Since the wind tends to vary in speed, its not unusual horizontal dispersion when shooting at the range. Before hunting season, at least one shooting session shoud be spent with no wind or the wind directly in front or behind the shooter.
The easiest way to unload a muzzleloader is to shoot the charge and bullet out of the rifle at the end of the range session or the hunting day. Inline rifles can be unloaded by removing the breech, dumping the powder out, and pushing the bullet out through the barrel.
mlhunter.review: The Thompson Center EZ Unloader I tested would not eject a sabotted bullet.
There are three types of general muzzleloading rifle cleaning to be addressed. Spit patch cleaning to soften fouling between shots, field cleaning to keep the bore from corroding between range sessions or hunting days, and bench cleaning to put the rifle away for several days or longer. Spit patch cleaning is used in between shots or groups to keep fouling to a minimum. Field cleaning is needed after shots have been fired while hunting. Bench cleaning involves partial or complete takedown of the rifle and must be done after a shooting session at the range or after the hunt is over.
Spit patch cleaning involves swabbing the bore with a patch dampened with spit or, in my case, I use Pyrodex EZ Clean lightly sprayed on the patch. I run it up and down a few inches at a time until I'm hitting the breech. Fouling really builds up near the breech so try and approach it cautiously to avoid getting the jag stuck there. Then I turn the patch over and do the same thing with the other side to dry the bore.
Field cleaning is done when one or more shots have been fired and it may be some time before more shots are fired. I do this after shots at game or at the end of the day after I unload my rifle by firing it. I keep a few patches saturated with Hodgdon EZ Clean in a sealed plastic bag in my pocket just for this. I swab the bore as above but finish off with a dry patch. The rifle is then ok until the next loading.
Bench cleaning should occur after a day at the range or after a hunting trip. Follow your rifle manufacturer's instructions when cleaning your rifle. Take the rifle down as far as the instructions say. Cleaning the breech plug recess in bolt action rifles can be a chore. Before doing this, make sure the rifle is pointed a bit downward so nasty stuff doesn' t run into the trigger area. I start with impaling a patch saturated with action cleaner around the breech plug brush, insert it into the breech plug recess and rotate it to get the fouling wet. Remove it, remove the saturated patch, re-insert the brush and rotate it back and forth to loosen up any caked fouling. Remove it, impale another patch saturated with action cleaner and run it in again. Impale a clean patch and run it in to sop up the mess. Repeat as necessary. Not elegant, but it works.
mlhunter.tip: I don't like dragging a dirty breech plug brush back through the bolt race and trigger sear area. With a pliers I modify a breech plug brush by putting a 90 degree bend in it about 1 3/4" from the brush end and I insert that through the capping port to clean the breech. I use a second breech plug brush to clean the bolt race when I break the rifle completely down for cleaning.
To thoroughly clean the bore and the rifle design allows it, I prefer to work from the breech end using a breech tube. I saturate a bore mop with bore solvent and swab the bore once to completely wet it so the fouling can soften up. Then I run a bore brush up and down the bore 10 times to loosen up the fouling. I then follow that with a patch saturated with bore solvent to push the fouling out of the muzzle end. I then follow that with clean patches until the bore is dry. If necessary, I'll repeat this until I'm satisfied the barrel is clean. Once I'm satisfied the bore is clean I moisten a patch with TC Bore Butter to protect it from rust.
I clean my breech plug and nipple with action cleaner. Spray it down inside and out and use an old toothbrush to get all the fouling out of the threads and other nooks and crannies.. Once you're done with that, spray the residue off action cleaner. Before installing the breech plug, make sure its completely dry, then lubricate breech plug and nipple threads with a non-galling lube, and install them together back in the barrel. The end of the bolt should also be cleaned in the same manner as the breech bolt. bolt can be sprayed off with action cleaner, lightly oiled with Rem Oil, and re-installed.
mlhunter.tip: I use Automotive Brake Parts Ccleaner instead of the expensive action cleaners. It does the same job and I can usually buy three of those for what the other cost Use at your own risk since I can't vouch for all Automotive Brake Parts Cleaners.
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Return to HomeIdeally we hunters would never need a second or third shot! However things in the field are not always ideal. A field kit should contain items needed for a quick reload when a second or third shot is needed. Is should also facilitate field cleaning in the event that hunting resumes after a shot has been fired. Another necessary item is a sling. There are times where a hunter needs both hands and still needs to carry the firearm. Uncle Mike's Mountain Sling is adjustable to fit most rifles, has QD type of attachment so it can be easily attached and detached to QD style studs that come on most rifles. It easily fits in a pocket when not needed. I have found I can carry everything I need for a day's hunting in my pocket. If I am out for more than a day, I'll have my backpack anyway.
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